It’s rare for beauty editors to get so excited about a product that it dominates our conversations for weeks, but that’s exactly what happens when something truly special cuts through the many samples we receive. More often than not, the products generating the most buzz aren’t backed by celebrities or sold at eye-watering prices. Case in point: The Inkey List’s Exosome Hydro Glow Complex, $22 .
If exosomes ring a bell, you’ve probably heard about them from a dermatologist, esthetician, or facialist. That’s because this special skincare ingredient is typically reserved for luxury facials and high-end treatments, often touted as a “miracle” for plumping, repairing, and rejuvenating the skin. In New York, for example, a facial containing exosomes can cost upwards of $500.
That’s what makes The Inkey List’s new serum seriously special. It contains three million plant-derived exosomes, clinically proven to boost collagen, the protein that gives skin its strength and suppleness, by an impressive 300%. Better still, it’s a snip of the price at $22. But what exactly are exosomes? And why are skincare enthusiasts, experts, and editors so obsessed with them?
What are exosomes, and what are the skin benefits?
Dr. Anjali Mahto , a consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London , explains that exosomes are naturally produced by our cells and act as messengers, transferring strengthening proteins, moisturizing lipids and genetic material between them: “In skincare, they are believed to promote skin regeneration, reduce inflammation, and support collagen and elastin production,” says Dr. Mahto — two key components that help maintain skin’s firmness and elasticity.
Exosomes can be sourced from both humans and animals, but their safety remains uncertain, and none are currently approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). As a result, most exosome-based skincare products use plant-derived exosomes. In The Inkey List’s clinically tested serum, the exosomes come from centella asiatica (also known as cica), making the formula both vegan and cruelty-free. Long used in Traditional Chinese Medicine, cica is a popular skincare ingredient known for calming redness and reducing inflammation.
As you might expect, plant-derived exosomes offer a range of skincare advantages: “The potential benefits [of exosomes] include improved skin texture, hydration, and reduced signs of aging,” says Dr. Mahto — think fewer fine lines and wrinkles. While promising, Dr. Mahto notes that research into the long-term effectiveness of exosomes is still evolving.
The Inkey List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex, $22
Besides exosomes, this serum boasts hydrating hyaluronic acid and ectoin, which lock in moisture And it helps maintain the skin barrier. Additionally, it contains Coenzyme Q10, an antioxidant that protects the skin from environmental stressors such as polluting elements that can make the complexion look dull. Not to mention, it includes tripeptide-1, which aids in repairing the skin. While these ingredients sound promising, what’s their real-world performance like? To start with, I really enjoy the smooth consistency of the product; it gets absorbed rapidly without leaving my skin tacky. Instead, it gives me a refreshed and matte finish. Over the past month, I have applied this serum nightly following my cleanse routine and prior to applying lotion. During this period, many people have complimented me on my improved radiance.
It doesn’t stop there. In last week’s trip, I went to Self London For a VISIA skin analysis, which examines the condition of your skin with meticulous precision, the practitioner inquired whether I'd undergone any recent facials or laser treatments as my skin appeared notably hydrated: "Your skin has an excellent texture," she commented. Additionally using an antioxidant serum In the mornings and whenever I step out, regardless of whether I'm at home or outside, I apply a broad-spectrum SPF 50 sunscreen. After incorporating this serum into my routine, I believe it has contributed significantly to boosting my skin’s collagen and elastin production. Additionally, since starting with this product, I've noticed that the fine lines around my eye area appear less pronounced, along with those noticeable vertical creases between my brows becoming much softer.
Don’t just take my word for it. Head to Sephora And you'll notice countless reviews, with many giving it a five-star rating, emphasizing an even skin tone and progressively smoother, firmer skin.
What distinguishes exosomes used in at-home skincare products from those utilized in professional exosome treatments or facials?
Who needs expensive treatments when it seems topical exosomes are just as good? Or are they? Dr. Mahto says that topical exosome products may offer some benefits, such as hydration and mild rejuvenation, but their effectiveness is limited by the skin barrier, the outermost layer of skin, which can hinder penetration. “Professional exosome treatments, often delivered via microneedling or injectables, allow deeper delivery directly into the skin, potentially producing more visible results,” says Dr. Mahto. “On the other hand, topical treatments can only go so far.”
As stated by The Inkey List, their cica-derived exosomes are extremely small and align well with the skin and its natural functions, enabling them to "penetrate the upper layers of the skin efficiently and work swiftly and effectively without the need for microneedling."
Is instability an issue for exosomes when used as an ingredient? Do they require refrigeration or maintenance at a certain temperature to remain effective?
However, when it comes to exosomes, one issue stands out: their instability. As Dr. Mahto points out, "Exosomes are fragile biological entities susceptible to damage from heat, light, and oxidation," which basically means exposure to air affects them too. She further elaborates, "In order to preserve their structure and effectiveness, products that contain exosomes typically necessitate refrigeration or particular storage requirements." Additionally, Dr. Mahto notes that certain preparations including exosomes might undergo freeze-drying to enhance their stability at room temperature; however, this practice differs among manufacturers. Without proper preservation methods, exosomes could deteriorate, diminishing the potency of the product, according to her.
Considering this, I reached out to The Inkey List to verify the optimal storage method for the serum. According to the brand, refrigeration isn’t necessary; instead, they recommend keeping it in a cool, dark spot away from direct sunlight. The sealed container ensures the components remain potent for an extended period. While some individuals have faced problems with the pump mechanism, I’ve found it simple to operate provided that I keep the bottle vertical when storing it.
If exosomes have caught your attention but the high cost of a single treatment for them makes you uncomfortable, this budget-friendly serum could be just what you're looking for. To enhance the effects even further, consider using it alongside another product. high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen .
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