A significant new white paper cautions that the UK faces lagging behind international initiatives to purify the fashion sector unless it revises its obsolete and inadequate regulatory frameworks.
The report compiled by Fashion Declares, along with law firm Bates Wells, advocates for three main changes: sealing off tax loopholes exploited by large-scale fast-fashion companies, implementing new charges to make brands accountable for fabric waste, and establishing transparent labeling to reflect the ecological impact of garments.
The creators of this argument believe that these changes are crucial for safeguarding UK retail businesses against unfair competition from international counterparts. They also emphasize moving the sector away from " exploitative, disposable business practices" that depend on low-cost imports and environmentally harmful production lines. Unless such adjustments occur, they warn, the UK risks missing out on an important chance to become a leader in eco-friendly fashion within its newly established economic landscape following Brexit.
The report, titled The UpcomingFashion Regulations in the UK Fashion Declares initiated this project alongside Bates Wells, a legal firm specializing in supporting enterprises throughout the fashion and textile industry.
Safia Minney, the founder of Fashion Declares, stated: "This white paper advocates for cross-industry cooperation within the fashion sector to foster discussions about policy suggestions for the UK government. These three proposed policies must be implemented collectively as they have been needed for a considerable time. By raising the de minimis customs limit, establishing an obligatory Extended Producer Responsibility charge scheme, and implementing Digital Product Passports, the UK can establish a robust policy and regulatory structure that encourages sustainable corporate behavior, strengthens consumer empowerment, and supports a more circular and resilient economic model. Immediate regulation is essential to develop a new economy grounded in operating within environmental limits and ensuring a fairer distribution of resources."
As governments throughout Europe and the United States are beginning to implement stricter regulations on fast fashion, the UK has not yet followed this lead. Advocates argue that without prompt intervention, it could lag even more and become an easy mark for inexpensive imports and unregulated wasteful practices.
Oliver Scutt, a senior associate and sustainability leader for fashion at Bates Wells, noted that the industry is seeking improved regulations. "UK legislation currently lacks an essential component," he stated. "Our findings indicate that this sector genuinely desires robust laws—suitable ones—and recognizes distinctly that maintaining 'business as usual' often favors shareholders over both individuals and the environment."
We're advocating for sensible, focused legislation," he said. "Our aim is not to punish the industry but to revise the regulations to better align with current challenges. We currently face issues like inexpensive packages flooding in from China, large amounts of discarded clothing, and lack of regulation.
Addressing the fast fashion exemption
One of the central proposals is a call to end the so-called de minimis tax exemption, which allows retailers to ship low-value items into the UK without paying import duty. That includes giants like Shein, which reportedly avoided £150 million in UK tax in 2023 alone. Domestic brands, by contrast, face full tax obligations.
Campaigners say this has created an uneven playing field and is directly fuelling the rise of disposable fashion. The white paper proposes closing the loophole and replacing it with a “harm-based” import system that reflects a garment’s true environmental and social cost.
Brands should be responsible for the costs associated with their production.
The document suggests implementing an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) program for textiles. Under this plan, brands would be held responsible for the fate of their items post-sale—this includes providing funds for systems designed to gather, repurpose, recycle, or properly discard clothing.
Fees would vary based on how garments are designed and made. Brands producing durable, repairable clothing would pay less, while those flooding the market with low-quality fast fashion would pay more.
“Producers need to take responsibility for the products they bring into the world,” the report says. “When a customer has finished with an item, it should be returned to the supplier – not sent to landfill.”
Lifting the veil on supply chains
The third proposal is the introduction of Digital Product Passports – simple QR codes attached to garments that would allow shoppers to see what they’re made of, where they were produced and under what conditions.
The idea is already being adopted by the EU, with rollout planned for 2027. Supporters say it could eventually evolve into a traffic light–style label, giving consumers instant insight into a product’s ethical and environmental footprint.
‘We’ve come a long way’
At the event kickoff, Baroness Lola Young – who initiated the Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion parliamentary group – commented on the progress made in discussions concerning fashion's ethical issues since her initial address on this topic in Westminster.
Approximately 15 years back, I recall proposing this concept, inspired greatly by my female companions, about establishing an initiative within Parliament focused on ethical and sustainable fashion — only to be met with 'what does that have to do with politics?'" she stated. "In that regard, one could argue that significant progress has been made.
She emphasized the importance of acknowledging how systemic inequalities and racial injustices permeate international supply chains. "It’s impossible for me to believe that many of these widespread practices within the sector would remain unchanged if they affected predominantly White individuals—because they clearly wouldn't."
The white paper will now be distributed among stakeholders and Members of Parliament, with Fashion Declares aiming to leverage it as a foundation for more extensive legal reforms.
“The next steps involve collecting feedback, building enthusiasm, and finally presenting the proposals to the government,” stated Minney.
Read the white paper here: Fashion Declares
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